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Mezcal
A cheap commercial
bottle of Mexican "Mezcal" bought in Cancun. A worm can be seen in
the bottom of the bottle. Mezcal is a Mexican distilled spirit
made from the "Maguey" plants and refers to all agave-based distilled
liquors that are not tequila. Its fabrication and consumption
are popularly associated with the Mexican State of Oaxaca,
however, commercial and private production of mezcal is known
over a wide area of central-south Mexico outside of tequila
producing areas (Jalisco and Guanajuato States). The mezcal of
Sonora is called "bacanora" in reference to the municipality where
it is made; the mezcal of Chihuahua is called "sotol" in reference
to the plant that is used there.
There are many different species of maguey plant, and each
produces a different taste of mezcal. Tequila is a mezcal made
from the blue agave plant in the town of Tequila and the
surrounding region of Jalisco State.
Production
Mezcal is made from the agave plant, commonly referred to in
Mexico as maguey. In the tequila region the indigenous people
call the plant "mezcal". Agave — a Greek word meaning noble — was
assigned to the 400 + species a hundred years ago due to the
large number of uses that the plant offered ancient peoples.
After the agave matures (6–8 years) it is harvested by
"magueyeros" (agave field workers, more generally called "jimadores")
and the leaves are chopped off using a long-handled knife known
as a "coa" or "coa de jima" (a type of machete), leaving only the
large hearts, which are called "corazón" (Spanish for "heart") or
"piñas" (Spanish for "pineapple"). The "corazón" is then cooked and
crushed, producing a mash.
Santiago Matatlán in Oaxaca is known as the world capital of
Mezcal. The family that is world known for their Mezcal
production is the Mateos family. This family has mezcal brand
that ranges from Mezcal Beneva (founder Pedro Mateo) Fandango
(co-founder Tiburrusio Mateos), Oro de Oaxaca (founder Jose
Lopez Mateos) and others that are just family name brands still
not registered names. This family has been in business for many
generations and is still influential.
Baking and mashing
A distillery oven loaded with agave "pineapples", the first step
in the production of tequila.Traditionally, the piñas are baked
in palenques: large (8–12 ft in diameter) rock-lined conical
pits in the ground. A 3–4 foot cubic pile of trunk oak in the
bottom of the pit is covered by rocks 6" in diameter and the
wood is burned, turning the rocks red hot. Next the piñas are
piled to 3–4 feet above ground level, then covered with banana
leaves, used fiber from the last process, or agave leaves, then
petate (palm fiber mats), and finally earth. The piñas are
allowed to cook in the pit for three to five days. This converts
the starches to fructose and lets the piñas absorb flavors from
the earth and wood smoke coating the rocks.
After the cooking, the piñas are left to sit for a week, then
placed in a ring of stone or concrete about 12 ft in diameter,
where a large stone wheel attached to a post in the middle is
pulled around by horse or burro, crushing the piñas.
Modern commercial makers cook the "piñas" with steam from a boiler
in huge stainless steel ovens and then crush them with
mechanical crushers.
Fermentation
The mash (tepache) is then placed in large, 300-500-gallon
wooden vats and 5%–10% water is added to the mix. The government
requires that 80% of this mix be from agave (as opposed to
tequila which is less regulated at 51%). Cane and corn sugars
may be added at this stage. In the case of smaller farmer
distillers, it is left to naturally ferment for four to thirty
days with the action of only airborne microbes.[citation needed]
In the case of commercial producers, chemical accelerators like
ammonium sulfate or urea are allowed and quantity is not
limited.[citation needed]
Distillation and aging
After the fermentation stage is done, the mash is
double-distilled. The first distillation yields ordinary
low-grade alcohol. After the first distillation, the fibers are
removed from the still and the resulting alcohol from the first
distillation added back into the still. This mixture is
distilled once again. At this point the mezcal may be bottled or
aged.
Mezcal ages quite rapidly in comparison to other spirits. It is
aged in large wooden barrels for two months to seven years.
During this time the mezcal acquires a golden color, and its
flavor is influenced by the wooden barrels. The longer it is
aged, the darker the color and the more noticeable the flavor.
Age classifications:
Añejo – Aged for at least a year in barrels no larger than 350
litres.
Reposado (rested) – Aged two months to a year.
Joven (Blanco) – "Young" White (colorless) mezcal, aged less
than two months.
Items added during bottling
A number of objects are frequently added into mezcal bottles
along with the mezcal itself. These can include worms,
scorpions, and decorative elements such as glass sculptures with
gold leaf (see Mezcal Embajador bottles).
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